So far, I have found it to be a place of huge variety of landscape, full of culture and rich in history.
I was determined to enjoy a walk that did not mean wading through boggy fields but still wanted an interesting place to photograph and learn more about. According to the Visit Essex website, Finchingfield is known as the most photographed village in England, so seemed to fit today's criteria. I started by this church which overlooks the village.
Straight away I noticed the unusual top to the tower and having researched this, it seems the bit at the top was added in the 18th century. The tower itself dates from 1170 and the church is the oldest building in the village. Information about the church also states that it is unusual in that it has a clerestory which is a high section of wall that contains windows above eye level.
In the time of William the Conqueror the village was called Phincingfelda. A textbook example of the traditional English village, Finchingfield is described as the 'most photographed village in England,' It has won many awards for its traditional picturesque setting.
The combination of duck pond, village green, hump-backed bridge and pub, overlooked by colour-washed cottages, a windmill and a medieval church, give it an unbeatable series of views, which are often found on calendars, chocolate boxes, tea towels, postcards and jigsaws.
The Guildhall is still used for the benefit of the village. There are community activities and classes, the volunteer led library and museum. A sign on the door of the museum said it was open again in the summer.
The building fell into disrepair after World War Two. Several attempts to restore the site were made but apparently inappropriate materials were used and architectural details were covered up. In 2008 the Finchingfield Guildhall Trust was formed to save the site from dereliction. After several years bidding for funding, the build started in earnest in 2011. Expert craftsmen were employed using ancient techniques, and local materials were sourced.
Amongst the thatched houses, pretty cottages and grand residences from a variety of periods over time, there is a windmill and a house which once belonged to the author of 101 Dalmations - Dodie Smith.
The windmill is the oldest in Essex and is thought to have been built in 1756. It stopped operating in 1890 and is now owned by the council and open to visitors from April to September.
Another notable residence in the village is Spains Hall. Currently owned by Jamie Oliver, this Elizabethan mansion is set in 150 acres of woodland, 11 miles of footpaths and 9 miles of bridle paths.
Looking at information online about the Hall says that it is named after Hervey de Ispania, who held the manor at the time of the Domesday Book in 1086. It seems Hervey was 'Lord immediately over the peasants' after the Conquest. I'm sure Jamie doesn't use this title but I didn't see him to ask and the gates had very obvious cameras so I thought it best not to hang around.
From the 14th to early 18th century the property was owned by the Kempes. There is a strange story around William Kempe, born in 1555. He married Philippa in 1588 and after 30 years of marriage he suspected her of being unfaithful and flew into one of his frequent rages. He knew he didn't want to repeat this behaviour so vowed never to speak again.
As he made this vow, he was overheard by a man known as 'The Raven' who was believed to have special powers as he was the seventh son of the seventh son. He warned Kempe not to stick to his vow because disaster would follow.
In the first year after making the vow, three servants drowned in ponds on the estate, in the second year Philippa died and in the third Kempe fell off his horse injuring his leg.
By the end of year five Kempe had business in a nearby town. Returning home with his groom they were caught by a thunder storm and took shelter in an old ruin. Kempe could hear voices and it soon became clear that he was listening to burglars who were planning to break into Spains Hall. He set off with his groom, who hadn't heard the men talking, to get home in time to raise the alarm. Unfortunately the storm had flooded the river Blackwater, which they had to cross. He wrote a message and the groom set off across the river with it. By the time the servant reached the house the water had washed away the message so the men of the house, unaware of the nature of the threat, set out to find and protect their master. Their absence made the task of the burglars easier. When Kempe and his men finally returned they found the house stripped of its valuables and the dead body of a young boy, a distant relative, killed by the crooks.
In 1625 the vicar of Finchingfield passed away. Kempe appointed the preacher from a nearby village and he persuaded Kempe to abandon his vow of silence. Kempe died three years later, in June 1628.
The present day estate holds walking tours with various themes, weddings and corporate events.
It is a working farm estate with self-catering accommodation and a focus on conservation. It is home to the first beavers to return to Essex in over 400 years.
Spains Hall taken from the lane. See link above for more information and better photographs!
The brick bridge crosses Finchingfield Brook, a tributary of the River Blackwater and was constructed around 200 years ago. It was interesting to see signs by the bridge referring to the proposed bridge replacement as unnecessary and stating that the highway's opinion that the current bridge is weak, 'is a lie'. This photo is taken from the opposite side to the signs - you can see the back of them leaning against the railings.
I can't verify how strong the bridge is but I can tell you that as I drove my car over, it felt very stable to me!
There are lots of online articles about the proposed temporary arrangements, petitions and it is very clear how the residents and business owners feel.
Stay up-to-date with all things Finchingfield, including information about the bridge replacement.
The artist Pissarro (Danish-French impressionist) visited Finchingfield in 1905 and produced six canvases. One of them he named 'Grey Weather' and having walked a lot over the last few months I can understand why.
Leaving Finchingfield, we went on to Great Bardfield. There is a lovely 4.7 mile circular walk that takes in all of the sights and is an easy one to follow.
There is another art link here - The Great Bardfield Artists.
Bardfield was home to many important 20th century English artists who hosted a series of open house exhibitions in the village in the 1950s.
Henry VIII is said to have given Bardfield to Anne of Cleves as part of their divorce settlement. A number of buildings in the village are associated with Anne.
I knew of a great café in Great Bardfield which I would recommend for a full breakfast and/or one of their amazing cakes. The Blue Egg has a shop with lovely gifts and food items. The café is called Knead Food.
This was a must as part of today's exploration!
Following a career defining meeting and watershed moment, I decided a walk would be the best way to respond to hours of contemplating what was said and what the next step might be for me.
So, I embarked on 5 an a half mile (6 miles if you count the early wrong turn taken) route around Terling in Essex.
I can't remember the last time I walked solo, certainly not this distance. That's either because I am amazing company or people feel I may not be safe to be out on my own.
Either way, off I went - even with out Willow - for two reasons:
Firstly, we had a recent mishap which resulted in her injuring a paw when she bolted away from me outside the house. an over-enthusiastic Alsatian to blame.
Secondly, I don't think she'd have the stamina yet for 6 miles and I certainly can't carry her that distance!
However, I did take the route from the Dog Walk app (see Willow's Walk section) and it would be ideal for a more robust dog!
The walk takes you through Terling and Fairstead villages and across lots of open fields with well-maintained paths and various small woods to go through or around. It takes in an ancient church and even a windmill so there is plenty to look at for dog or human.
I chose a sunny, blustery day and although it followed yet more storms, because the paths are mostly concrete or maintained grass, it was much easier underfoot than some of my recent walks.
The church was located roughly half way through the walk and as I was able to go in, brought welcome relief from the howling winter wind.
It is obvious that the church is old but when you walk inside the ancient wall paintings, pews and partially exposed wooden ceiling are special and it is like stepping back in time across centuries.
The church is dedicated to both St Mary and St Peter and is a Grade 1 listed building.
As you enter there is some general information about the church and the wall paintings. This told me that a Roman villa once stood near where the church now stands and bricks from it have been used in the construction of the church. Parts of the church were built in the eleventh century. The pews are fifteenth century. The oldest of the four bells dates to around 1340.
The 13th Century wall paintings were discovered during the restoration of the church in 1890 when the plaster was removed.
The paintings include a representation of the Passion of Christ, St Christopher and a scene believed by some to represent the Shepherds and the Angel and by others, the miracle of Longinus.
The paintings themselves were restored in 1934/36 and again in 1966.
Almost at the end of the walk, is Terling Windmill - now a residential building. Although, I only realised that when, as I was taking photos in the driveway, I spotted a washing line peeping out from the back garden!
I had to research what a 'smock mill' was - Google says it's "a windmill generally made out of wood and with 6 or 8 sides." It also says "because of their multiple sides smock mills resemble smocks traditionally worn by farmers." I Googled that, too and couldn't immediately see the connection. Every day is a school day.
Wikipedia tells us that in 1950 the miller working here was trapped in machinery and killed despite the best efforts of the fire brigade to rescue him. This brought an end to the building being a working mill and in 1970 it was converted into a house.
Wikipedia link: